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What Should I Fix First in a 1970s or 1980s Erin Mills or Meadowvale Home?

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Start with whatever lets water in: failed caulking around windows, doors and siding joints. Then fix worn door and patio-door seals and sticking window hardware. Same-size window, door and fixture swaps need no City of Mississauga building permit.

If your house is in Erin Mills or Meadowvale, it was almost certainly built between 1971 and 1990. The City of Mississauga's community profiles, published in February 2004 from 2001 Census data, show how much of each neighbourhood dates from those years. In Erin Mills, 36.9% of homes were built from 1971 to 1980, 17.5% from 1981 to 1985 and 30.7% from 1986 to 1990, which is about 85% in total. In Meadowvale, 46.5% were built from 1971 to 1980 and 31.8% from 1981 to 1985, about 78% together. The profiles are 20 years old, but the houses haven't moved: the original windows, patio doors, caulking and seals are now 35 to 55 years old.

A house that age doesn't need everything done at once. Here's the order that usually saves the most trouble.

1. Caulking: the cheapest repair that stops the most damage

Caulk is a consumable. Natural Resources Canada's Keeping the Heat In guide gives rough lifespans by product: butyl rubber 5 to 10 years, acrylic latex 5 to 25 years depending on the brand, and silicone, polyurethane and acrylic-silicone blends 20 to 30 years or more. Whatever went on when the house was built, or on the last quick touch-up, has probably outlived its range. Look for caulk that has cracked, shrunk away from the frame or turned hard and chalky, especially where siding meets window and door frames and around exterior taps and vents.

Two details from the same guide matter. Gaps of 6 mm (1/4 inch) or more need a foam backer rod before the caulk goes in, or the bead won't hold. And silicone can't be applied over old silicone, so the old bead has to be cut and cleaned out first. The guide also says to finish sealing the inside of a window before caulking the outside, because caulking the exterior first can trap warm, moist air in the wall.

2. Doors and patio doors: seals, sweeps and hardware

Drafts and a door that won't latch are the two things you notice first. The guide recommends a good-quality V-shaped vinyl strip along the top and sides of a door frame, because it keeps contact with the door even as it warps with the seasons. Check the threshold or door bottom too: the guide calls it a hard spot to seal, but often a source of major drafts. For weatherstripping generally, it should spring back to its original shape quickly and easily, and the guide suggests taking a piece of the old strip to the store to match it.

On a sliding patio door, the guide says to replace worn weatherstripping and hardware first. If the door is in poor condition, it points to an ENERGY STAR certified replacement. Rollers that grind or a latch that no longer catches are cheap to fix and worth doing before the door is written off.

3. Windows: check before you decide to replace

The same guide suggests checking each window for rot, mould or staining on or around the frame, the condition of the glass, putty and paint, the weatherstripping, and whether the hardware works. Some windows need only minor air sealing and new hardware; others need the glazing or the whole unit replaced. Rot in the frame or sill is the clearest sign you're past repair.

On permits: the City of Mississauga's "When a building permit is required" page lists replacing a window or a door with one of the same size as work that does not need a building permit. Adding a window or door, or enlarging an existing opening, does. The page also warns that zoning rules apply even when no building permit is needed. If you want a bigger opening in a bedroom or basement, check with the City's Building Division first.

4. Fixtures in place: faucets, toilets, vanities

Original taps, toilet fill valves and supply lines in these houses are due. The City's permit page says replacing a plumbing fixture such as a sink, tub, toilet or shower in the same location needs no building permit, while adding, removing or moving one does. Painting and minor masonry repairs are also on its no-permit list. A licensed plumber is still the right person for anything behind the wall: plumbing is a compulsory trade in Ontario.

5. If your house is from the early 1970s, think about the wiring

Aluminum branch wiring turns up in homes from the 1960s and 1970s. If an outlet or switch needs replacing in an early-1970s house, read our guide on aluminum wiring first, because the wrong device is a real problem rather than a cosmetic one.

A note on Meadowvale Village

The 1970s and 1980s subdivisions of Meadowvale are separate from Meadowvale Village, the old hamlet, which is a heritage conservation district with its own rules for exterior work. If your home is in the Village rather than the newer subdivisions, check the heritage rules before changing windows or doors.

Quick answers

How old are most homes in Erin Mills and Meadowvale?

Most are 1970s and 80s homes: about 85% in Erin Mills date from 1971 to 1990, and 78% in Meadowvale from 1971 to 1985. Original parts are now 35 to 55 years old.

Do I need a permit to replace a window in Mississauga?

Not if the new window is the same size as the old one. The City of Mississauga requires a building permit only to add a window or make an existing opening bigger.

How long does exterior caulking last?

It depends on the product. Natural Resources Canada rates butyl at 5 to 10 years and acrylic latex at 5 to 25 years, while silicone and polyurethane last 20 years or more.

When should I replace door weatherstripping?

Replace it when it no longer springs back to its shape or leaves a visible gap. Natural Resources Canada says good weatherstripping should spring back quickly and easily.

Do I need a permit to replace a toilet or sink in Mississauga?

Not if the new fixture goes in the same spot. The City asks for a permit only when a fixture is added, removed or moved.

Make a list, then do it in order

Walk the outside of the house once with a notepad: cracked caulk, gapped seals, sticking windows, rot. Fix the water-entry points first, then the drafts, then the hardware. Most of this is a day or two of small jobs rather than a renovation.

Related reading

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